The account of this trip is taken from a journal kept by C. A. Brandt. He kept a daily account of this trip to Oregon. Spelling and grammar left as was written.
Westward Ho! To Oregon! In a Covered Wagon! March 18, 1851. Logansport, Indiana. After yoking our oxen, we drove 12 miles south to Rockcreek where we got into a deep ford with the wagon and had to pull it out backwards up a steep hill. We then camped for the night. Next morning we crossed the creek and traveled 17 miles that day. Stopped one mile from Americus at a farm house for the night. Our oxen were young and not much accustomed to the yoke. When the yoke was removed from the one, the other started on the gallop about the lot among the farmers cattle, swinging his yoke in all directions but still with all his frantic efforts it stayed with him until he became submissive and the yoke was removed without further trouble.
March 20th. Traveled 13 miles to Lafayette where we stayed until the next morning. Then we traveled westward 12 miles and camped.
March 22d. Rained in the early morning and put out the camp fire. Went to a farmhouse and got breakfast and started on our journey late. We came to a Grand Prairie with wild geese, ducks and Prairie hens in great numbers. Camped at Oxford. Next morning left Oxford and traveled westward 10 miles to Parishes Grove, which is one mile in diameter out in the Prairie to itself and 16 miles to the nearest
timber. No other timber being in sight from this point. Camped in the Prairie eight miles from timber. Cranes and Prairie hens plentiful. Also saw five deer. After night we set the Prairie on fire and it was a grand sight.
March 24th. Tried to shoot a Prairie hen. There were hundreds of them. 100 yards was as near to them as I could get. Shot five times without results and went to breakfast. The weather was clear. Later in the day one of the boys killed a hen. We saw ten to twelve deer in the distance. At noon I shot a hawk as it was flying and killed it. Crossed Sugar Creek three times. Water came midside on oxen. Arrived in Millford,
Illinois at two o’clock. Continued on and after crossing a very bad creek we camped. Traveled 16 miles.
March 25th. Cloudy and signs of rain. Crossed the Prairie five miles to timber. I killed a hen today and cooked her for supper. Roads bad. Many deer seen today half mile away. Camped on Spring Creek. Traveled 18 miles. The greatest distance without seeing a house was 20 miles. The deer are very wild. The Prairie in some places is thick set with niggerheads (large stones). Some very large stones being six feet above ground. Part of the surface is rolling and some level, black rich soil, frequently gravel on the
surface. The next morning was clear. Stron wind all day. Traveled twenty miles through a Prairie. One of the boys shot a crane. Stayed at Oliver’s Grove, a pretty place. These 5 groves were found frequently in the vast prairies and were to the traveler as an Oasis in the desert, breaking the monotony of Prairie travel. Several families lived there. There was an old man of 80 years with his wife of 18 summers living here.
March 27th. Rained this morning. Clear at noon. Traveled 13 miles and stayed in the Prairie all night.
The next morning we came into the company of another team bound for Oregon. Clear day. I shot a Prairie hen. We passed through Lexington, Ill. Traveled 18 miles and camped for the night. I made corncakes for supper and breakfast. Our company left us today. The next morning was clear and windy. Came through Bowling Green, Ill. Camped three miles from town.
March 30th. Rain in the morning. Passed through Washington, Ill. at noon. Traveled 21 miles and camped on the east bank of the Illinois River across from Peoria. March 31st. Clear and cold. Crossed the bridge at noon. This bridge is 600 yards long. It is at the lower end of the lake which is simply a widening of the river. Peoria has a population of 7500. Several steamboats were at the landing. Traveled eight miles and stopped for the night.
April 1st. Passed through some fine country. Well improved farms. Thickly settled country. Passed Farmington, Ill. and camped 24 miles from Peoria. The next day passed through Fairview. A heavy rain last night. Wind blew hard, n fact a gale, and cold all day. The peculiarity of Fairview was its tall chimneys. It was a small town, as also was Ellisville, which we passed through and further on camped at Virgil another small town. Traveled 16 miles today. The next morning we traveled on south west within three miles of Macomb, a town of 1000 inhabitants. We camped for the night.
April [?]th. Cloudy this morning. Frank and Arthur killed three prairie hens. We came to Middletown where we camped. The country since we left Peoria is thickly settled. There are fine country farms, plenty of corn, not much wheat raised, Prairiecountry, timber scarce, good roads, thousands of prairie hens. Saw several fields of spring wheat. We traded off our muley oxen for a light pair of young steers. They traveled well. Began to rain about 3 P.M. Wind from the northeast was very cold. Snowed all night and still snowing the next day. Very muddy and cold. The snow fell to the depth of 10 inches, the greatest snowfall here this year. We saw Elephants Track (slow, difficult, or suffering in travel) this evening. Traveled three miles and camped. The next morning cold and clear. Started at 11 A.M. Crossed Crooked Creek (rising fast) and passed through Milleville and Mechanicsville and camped for the night. Traveled 11 miles, the worst today that we have had thus far on the trip.
April 7th. Cloudy but pleasant. Snow nearly all gone. Breakfast over. We traveled 10 miles to Chili, Illinois. Saw several deer. Arthur shot at one and broke its leg but it escaped. Geese and ducks abundant. Began to rain at noon, accompanied by a strong wind and finally cleared up but was cold. Froze last night. Cold this morning. Traveled eight miles and had to lay up because of high water. Arthur killed a deer this afternoon. Many deer to be seen.
April 9th. Frank killed a hen. Arrived at Warsaw at 3 P.M. Stopped for the night. Traveled 15 miles.
April 10th. Crossed the Mississippi River on a steam ferry boat. Traveled four miles when I (C.A.B.) left to visit a friend at St. Francisville. Cloudy, rained some. The team traveled 15 miles. Here we will refer back or explain. On the 8th we changed our course of travel. We had intended to go to Quincy but now headed for Warsaw. Crossed the river on a steam ferry boat. The river here is over one-half mile wide. When we were in midstream we could see three different towns, in three different states. Warsaw, Illinois, Keocuck, Iowa, and Alexandria, Missouri. Let the reader stop for moment and think. Imagine the unpleasant conditions existing, even to three young men let alone women and children. There were many emigrants on the road. We were traveling through the open country at a time when the elements are at the worst. When travelers experienced these difficulties and met with such extremes it is termed they have seen the
Elephants Track.
April 11th. I left St. Francisville and walked seven miles when I overtook a wagon. Rode 10 miles in this wagon. Came up to my partners and team two miles from Dogtown. Passed this town and camped for the night. Let the cattle run in the prairie. Traveled 20 miles. Weather clear. Not well this morning. Stomach trouble and toothache which stayed with me all day and part of the night. Layed in the wagon all day. Passed through Raysville. Then to Stringtown and stopped for the night. Rained hard today. Traveled 17 miles.
April 13th. Cloudy and cold. Left Stringtown and passed through Bloomfield, Iowa. Roads bad and rain most of the day. Camped for the night on an old camp meeting ground. Let the cattle run at large. Traveled 15 miles. Next morning was pleasant but not clear. Had to camp in the prairie three miles
from any house. Traveled 15 miles.
April 15th. Clear. Came to Centerville at noon. Small place. Bad roads. Very hilly. Crossed the Sheridan River. Small stream but very deep and steep banks. Six miles from Centerville we camped for the night. Traveled 13 miles. Yesterday we met a man that was fair and reasonable in his dealings with others. He said he never wanted more than 30¢ nor less than 20¢ for a bushel of corn. Last spring when others were
selling corn at 75¢ and $1.00 per bushel he charged 30¢. The grass looks quite green in the bottom land.
April 16th. Clear and pleasant. Traveled 15 miles and camped two hours before sunset. Arthur and Frank went hunting. Traveled over some high prairie today. No timber except on the creek bottoms. The trees are coming out in leaf sufficient to show green.
April 17th. Clear and pleasant. Got up before daylight and took a grand turkey hunt. Saw several but killed none. Came back to camp after sunrise. The cattle had strayed a mile away. We got a late start. After traveling 12 miles we camped on Medicine Creek. At 3 P.M. Arthur and Frank went hunting. Corn 30¢ and 35¢ per bushel in this vicinity. Saw numbers of wagons bound for Oregon. Had corncakes for supper. We passed through the county seat of Dodge County Missouri. There was one house and a smoke house and some goods to sell which was kept in the smoke house. St. Johns. Passed the line between Iowa and Missouri last evening April 16th.
April 18th. Cloudy and raining this morning. Saw numbers of wild turkeys today but they were too wild for us. Traveled 19 miles. Stopped at 4 P.M. and camped 3 miles from Princeton, Missouri along a small creek. Some very large timber here, the first we have seen for some time. The next morning was clear and pleasant. After passing through a small village of Princeton we crossed Grand River. Saw some California emigrants. Good roads. Traveled through timber all day. Crossed the river today on a ferry boat and traveled 11miles across a prairie. Frank killed a deer today. Arthur wounded another one. Deer and
turkeys in great numbers. The trees along the road are most covered with names, (hundreds of them) of people who passed over this route bound for California last spring. At the middle fork of Grand River 1400 wagons crossed, bound for the Pacific coast. (This was the year of 1850).
April 21st. Passed Bethany, Missouri, a small place. Crossed Big Creek. At this place was located a saw and grist mill. Bought some cornmeal here. Camped on a small creek eight miles from Bethany. A serious accident occurred here last Friday night. An Oregon bound wagon stopped here for the night. A fire had been built at the roots of a leaning hollow walnut tree. The family slept in the wagon. During the night the tree having burned off, fell across the wagon and almost killed the man and three of his children. (Blood stains still remain). The family could not go to Oregon this spring. The man is still here at a house one-half mile off. The family are from Illinois. This day we traveled 13 miles.
April 22d. Clear and pleasant. Passed through Gentryville. 250 inhabitants. Crossed the west branch of Grand River and camped for the night. Traveled 14 miles.
The next morning was cloudy but pleasant. Crossed the prairie, but to break the monotony there were intervals of hills and hollows. Saw a man planting corn. Started early and stopped when the sun was an hour high. Traveled 25 miles.
April 24th. Clear. Passed through Harrisonville, Missouri and crossed the Little Platte River. Camped 10 miles from St. Jo. Corn plenty. 20¢ per bushel. The surface of the country is rough, up and down all day. 13 miles today.
April 25th. Clear and pleasant. Traveled to 102 Creek. Here we camped for the night. The California bound boys (Dr. Blowers and his brother Russel from Michigan) came up with us this evening.
April 26th. Clear. Caught some catfish this morning and had them for breakfast. I went to St. Jo today in company with the Michigan boys. St. Jo is about the size of Logansport, Indiana. Population between 3500 and 4000. Many emigrants for Oregon and California are here. They are laying in supplies and crossing the river as fast as they can and camping in the Kickapoo country, opposite the city. The Missouri River here is not much wider than the Wabash at Lafayette, Indiana but it is very deep. All kinds of
business is lively and general activity prevails. We are camped 8 miles from St. Jo.
April 27th. Cloudy and some rain but not unpleasant. Today is Sunday. The boys
are shooting at marks and fishing. The next day was pleasant. Caught some salmon. They were very good.
April 29th. Cloudy and snow. Very cold and windy. Washed four shirts and three pairs of socks. Corn 16¢ per bushel.
April 30th. Clear and cold. Our California boys left us this morning. I had a tooth pulled by Dr. Blower. It took four strong pulls. Frank went to town today. We stayed here in camp until May 11th. I hired to a farmer for several days. I raked cornstalks with an ox team hitched to a big wooden rake. According to agreement we met in camp near St. Jo. Mr. Wirick, owner of the team and wagon I was with, decided that two men were all he needed so I looked elsewhere for a job. Among the emigrants here assembled (400) was Mr. and Mrs. Alexander Spohn of Cass County, Indiana (Mrs. Spohn formerly lived with my parents). They were on their way to Oregon. Mrs. Spohn’s father and mother were also on their way to Oregon and were to meet the Spohns at St. Jo but arrived here, crossed the river and started on the trip across the plains several days before the arrival of the Spohns, who had sold their farm in Clay township, Cass County,cIndiana, for $1100 in gold. They had been delayed in reaching St. Jo when expected. Mr. Spohn was rather a worthless character, intoxicated most of the time and as a result unfit for business. The next morning the sun rose clear. Quite in contrast to the weather conditions the evening before. We resumed our journey. A few hours of travel brought us to Savannah, Missouri, a pretty little village of 1000 inhabitants. We still kept our course north west up the Missouri River traveling through thick green woods. The over rolling prairie covered with flowers and rich green grass. Camped in sight of the river bluffs. Traveled 17 miles.
May 13th. Passed through Newark, Missouri, which is another infant city. Traveled 18 miles.
May 14th. Rained hard all day and night. Severe thunder and lightening. A cold wind prevailed. There were several bad hills made slippery by the rains. It was difficult for the ox teams to pull the wagon over. Rained tonight and until the next day noon. When it cleared and pleasant weather prevailed we traveled on to Linden, a small village. A mile further on we camped. This night I took my blanket and layed down by a log in the open air and enjoyed a good night’s sleep. We had been drenched for several nights
previous. At this place, Judge Taylor and his company had stopped for dinner, leaving their oxen yoked and hitched in the wagon to eat their noon-day meal. Something happened that scared the cattle causing them to stampede and swing around upon the groups while thus resting. One child was killed and Judge Taylor was injured in this ankle quite severely causing him to be somewhat of a cripple. Mrs. Taylor was an invalid and died later while on the plains.
May 16th. Clear. Some very high bluffs in view. Crossed the Nish he Botina Creek and traveled along the river bottoms which are from 3 to 12 miles wide. Camped four miles from Old Fort Kearney, Nebraska City or Bowles ferry. Corn could be bought for 50¢ per bushel. The next morning there were hard showers of rain. Yoked up the cattle and traveled on to opposite the Fort. The ferry fee for a wagon and two yoke of oxen was $2.50. An old man kept the ferry.
May 18th. Stayed in camp to prepare to our ferry trip. Rain today. It rains most of the time. Hoosiers who have not been away from home know nothing about rain.
May 19th. Crossed the Missouri River this morning into Indian Territory. To the westward is a rolling prairie as far as the eye can reach. The young grass has dressed the hills in rich green, and here is the place the Pilgrim realizes the distance between him and his friends growing wider. As he takes a long farewell look on the part of the states (the country east of the Missouri River) that are fast receding from his view, it seems as though he was leaving the world and turns his face towards the setting sun. Thus he goes boldly forward on his journey. The wind blew quite cold. In the evening we found it necessary to wrap up on blankets to keep warm. There were only two wagons of us together at this time. Spohns drawn by three yoke of oxen and Griffins drawn by four mules. We camped in the prairie without wood, no fire consequently. We went to bed supperless. Traveled 18 miles.
May 20th. Clear and cold. Two of the mules are gone this morning. They went back to the fort where we crossed the river. We have not seen any Indians yet. Mr. Griffin went after his mules. The rest of us decided to go on, except Alex who said he had not come out here to be murdered by the Indians and swore he would not go any farther but Margaret, his wife, wished to catch up with the old folks and she was anxiousto move on. She told me to yoke up the oxen which I did and we started leaving Alex
sitting on a big stone determined to go no farther. Margaret and I traveled on. In the afternoon after descending a prairie slope of about three miles we witnessed a prairie sunset in all its splendor. Tongue cannot express nor pen write a description of it. It is a scene that thrills one with awe and admiration, one that fills the mind with thoughts of Him who keeps us in light and dark and watches over us as His own. Also looking back we beheld the form of Alex coming over the crest of the prairie incline, overtaking
us at night. He was very much afraid and would not hear of us building a fire. The oxen were tied fast and all was quiet in that little camp that night. We camped on Table Creek 30 miles from the fort or Ferry where we crossed the river. We were on the move before daylight the next morning. A hard thunder and
lightening storm prevailed. Rained all day and arrived at Salt Creek where we found plenty of company waiting because of high water. There were 13 wagons in all. The lightening killed three head of cattle and knocked down 30 or 40 more cattle not more than 200 yards from camp. We saw ten graves where emigrants had been buried between here and the river. All had died last spring. The wolves had dug into most of these graves.
May 22d. Cloudy and rain till noon when it cleared. We tried to make a raft on which to cross the creek but failed. So we rigged a wagon bed. We stretched a rope across the creek and ferried several loads across this afternoon. The next morning we completed the transit of wagons and their loads and swam
the horses and cattle across. Drowned six head of cattle in the operation by trying to force them all into the water at once. Thus nine head of cattle were lost at this place. All the wagons, goods, livestock and the people of the company being across we camped on the west bank of Salt Creek this night. Wagons were taken apart in order to get them across.
May 23d. At this time 17 wagons generally three yoke of oxen to the wagon, also loose cattle, a number of horses and mules crossed the creek. Odell and McCain of Cass County, Indiana with four wagons and oxen. Judge Taylor of Cass County, Illinois, had a train of 10 wagons with oxen and mules, 250 head of loose cattle, horses and mules forthe cattle drivers. Miller, a companion of Taylors, with three wagons.
May 24th. The United States mail arrived this morning from New Fort Kearney but had to wait till the water subsided before crossing. A two wheeled cart carrying an iron box in which the mail was kept was drawn by two mules. Put our wagons together and loaded up the goods and traveled twelve miles and camped in the prairie.
The next day was Sunday. Started early and traveled all day over rolling prairie. Could frequently see small groves of timber to the right and left but we did not pass through any groves of timber. Camped one-half mile from timber. A severe storm prevailed. Rained hard all night and till the next day noon. We got breakfast now and it was the first we had eaten in 24 hours. The sun shone out bright for a time but soon the dark clouds began to rise. After we had camped a severe hail and thunder storm prevailed. No supper tonight. We are now on the Great Plains.
May 27th. Clear today. Got to the Platt bottoms after traveling through several bad sloughs. Camped. Rain and a hurricane last night but we were prepared. We placed the wagons side by side in a semicircle and chained them together as a safe guard from being upset by the wind. I stood guard half the night. This was the first guard duty for me.
May 28th. We camped near a big slough of the Platt River. Water quite warm. Grass very good.
May 29th. Came to the famous Platt or Nebraska River. It is nearly two miles wide and full of small islands. Water very shallow and muddy. Crossed several bad creeks. Passed through a deserted Pawnee Village. The houses were built of poles tied together with whang leather and covered with grass and then with dirt. The floors were sunk two feet below the surface of the ground. Roads bad. This day we met some boys returning from California. Camped on the banks of the Platt.
May 30th. Traveled along the banks of the Platt all day. Bad roads. Good grass. River spotted with islands and these covered with timber. Deep sand in the road. Rained last night. Roads bad. Clear. Camped where wood was scarce. Water plenty. The rich green grass is intermixed with flowers of all kinds and colors.
June 1st. 1851. On the Great Plains and bound for Oregon. Clear in the morning but had some rain last night. Passed new Ft. Kearney today. Met an oxteam from Salt Lake City. The country here is level. From a distance the Fort looks like a town. There is some land cultivated by the government around the Fort. We saw a gallows erected by the government troops for the purpose of executions under their charge. Camped six miles west of the Fort. Clear and cold. Two coats are needed for comfort. Saw several antelope today. They were shy and kept their distance. Rice is 15¢ per lb. and flour 7¢ at the Fort. We
have hauled wood ever since we left Old Fort Kearney which is 210 miles from the new Fort. We had no special rules as to wood hauling only when finding wood by the roadside when traveling we would take it along until camping time.
June 3d. Cold wind all day. It blows all the time. We have to dig a hole in the ground in which to build fires. Then we do our cooking. This day we cooked supper for the first time with buffalo chips. It was quite interesting to see the children running and gathering the precious stuff. Precious because of the absence of wood or other fuel with which to make fires. We had big bright fires tonight. Here we first came to alkali but not in any great space or quantity. The presence of alkali could be told by the white or frosty
appearance of the ground where it existed, usually a low place and trampled into mud by the buffalo and cattle trying to get the salt.
June 4th. Storm this morning. Very cold. Three coats to keep a fellow warm. The bones of buffalo skeletons are numerous and chips without numbers. We saw nine buffalo, the first we have seen. A hungry wolf had the impudence to venture into camp and but for the wet guns, causing them to be unfit to use, the wolf would have lost his life. The dogs caused him to make tracks in a hurry. Ate dinner at the mouth of the North Platt. Camped in the prairie and carried water two miles. Cold and drizzling rain.
Chips for fire. There were four different wagon trains in sight today. We had tents for protecting
our goods. Some of the travelers slept in the tents. Different companies of trains could be seen. All bound for the same destination but traveling separate. Later their nearness to one another was found necessary for protection from the Indians.
June 5th. Cloudy and cold till noon. It cleared off and was quite warm. Stopped for dinner on the banks of the South Platt River. I waded nearly across the river. The water is thick with sand and you cannot see the bottom even where it is but three inches deep. The river was ¾ miles wide and from two to 16 inches deep with sandy bottom. A company ahead of us killed a buffalo and gave us some of the meat. It was fine and the first we had tasted. The cactus and prickley pear flourish in this region. One of the boys saw a wolf following after the train. He took his gun and layed down in a gutter until the unsuspecting wolf came close up to him and he shot it dead. This was a coyote. They were camp scavengers. Often when companies were in camp no wolves could be seen but in a very short time after leaving camp a whole pack would be fighting over the camp leavings. When pulling into camp for the night the wagons were brought along side of one another and formed in a circle or horseshoe shape, thus making a corral. The front of the wagon outward, the rear inside. If ever an ox driver threw down his whip on the outside the wolves would sneak up and chew the whip lash. Slight shower or rain last night. Wolves yelping and howling all night. Saw several of the sly and cowardly chaps. Today we came in speaking distance of a company from Pike County, Illinois. Saw hundreds of buffaloes off to the north and across the river. After we camped had a slight shower of rain but it cleared up. Mosquitoes are not scarce as the scarred faces and hands of our company show.
June 7th. Very warm. Stayed in camp today to rest our cattle and also wash day. Several of us went out hunting. Saw some buffaloes and hundreds of antelope. I wounded one but did not get it. While on this hunt I passed through several villages of prairie dogs. They are some larger than the gray squirrel of the states. When they hear any one coming they all go into their holes except a sentinel. Each house or den had a sentinel who stood straight up and looked around to see the enemy. When you came close up to them they gave a bark and disappeared. It is said that owls and rattlesnakes live with them in their burrows. I saw a number of owls but no snakes.
June 8th. Clear and warm. After the train had started, I in the company with four others went after some buffaloes. Two of the boys killed one. I wounded two. They are very hard to kill. There were several wounded but it was so warm that we could not follow them. We saw possibly ten thousand in one herd. A sea of buffaloes. About 3 P.M. we began to get thirsty but could find no water and had brought none with us. Each took about 20 lbs. of beef and started after the wagons. Sun two hours high. Mosquitoes very bad. It was night before we got to the road and where there was water. The water was dirty muddy stuff but we were glad to get that. We traveled on and did not get to camp until 11 P.M. that night. Before reaching camp and while on the trail we heard something running towards us which proved to be a loose horse with bridle on. One of our party was a boy 15 years old who had gone hunting. We had relieved him of his share of the meat. We caught the horse and put the boy upon him and most of the meat.
After traveling some time we met two men coming in search of the horse. They had come provided with a week’s provisions expecting to go some distance before finding the horse. They divided provisions with us which relieved our hunger and thirst. Then we proceeded on our journey. The men belonged to the Pike Country train.
June 9th. Clear. Traveled near the Platt and came to the crossing. Went over without any difficulty and camped on the west shore. The river is two thirds of a mile wide and the water would average 15 inches deep all the way across. It is very muddy and sandy.
June 10th. Clear and pleasant. Went up hill four miles, then traveled on the level or table land till we came to Ash Hollow in sight of the North Platt. Here we went down several little hills and soon came to one the steepest hills that I ever saw wagons go down. We next traveled two miles through a narrow defile and gently descending which brought us to the North Platt. In size this river is about the same as the South Platt. Toward the mouth of the hollow grew some scrubby ash trees which gives the name. The sides of the hollow or small canyon were two or three hundred feet high and four or five miles in length at the mouth very narrow. There were some cedar trees sticking along the sides in crevices of the rock. At Ash Hollow we came up with Old Man Darrow. Margaret Spohn’s father. Our company was now composed of three wagons—Darrow—Spohn—and Griffin. The next day saw some Indians. Also some French traders. Bad roads. Deep sand. Grass and wood scarce. Mosquitoes in swarms. Camped on Alkali bottoms. Our
company now numbers twenty wagons. The Pike County company have 17 wagons.
June 12th. Drizzling rain. Cold till noon. Sandy road. No water but the Platt River. We see old wagons and other articles such as gun barrels, log chains, plows, ox yokes, and all kind of merchandise. This had been left by the immigrants because of their team giving out and being compelled to lighten their loads. Generally the wood work on these abandoned goods had been removed and used for fuel. Often other trains following would take these cast off articles along for a while until their teams gave out and they
were compelled to dispose of extra weight. Crossed a creek this afternoon and camped in a high plain at the foot of the cliff. Often wolves could be seen looking down on us from above while we were traveling. We found several good springs. Weather cold and clear. Rained soon after we camped. The mosquitoes were more numerous by far than we had yet experienced and consequently very little done this night.
June 13th. Clear. Good roads. Came in sight of the Lone Tower and Chimney Rock. The lower part was rock and the top was a kind of clay. Took dinner four miles from the Lone Tower and camped five miles form Chimney Rock. This rock as viewed from camp has the appearance of a large haystack with a pole sticking out of the top. Rained this night.
June 14th. Clear. I in company with two others went to Chimney Rock. It is composed of rock, clay and sand and is 300 feet high. There were thousands of names cut in the rock. I noticed the familiar name Houston cut in large letters. When we left camp the rock looked rather close but we walked a good five miles before we got there. Came to the train at noon. We saw a very large rock called Court House Rock. Some of the boys went to the rock and thus enjoyed a walk of six miles or more. Traveled six miles and camped for the night. There were four other companies not far from us. Spohn and Griffin holding back on account of the dust that came back from those ahead. They being in the majority traveled in the lead and the wind from the west made a cloud of dust. At times there were forty-five wagons in the train. Cass County, Indiana, Ca County Illinois, Judge Taylor, leader. Pike County, Illinois 500 head of stock, horses,
mules, and cattle. Not many horses.
June 15th. We left our company this morning. Passed some very high bluffs. Came to a trading house at noon. Saw many Indians. The women got scared today. Some traders came to the train, offering to trade cattle, and wanted the emigrants to come off the road. After they had traveled some distance to one side, one of the traders started off on a gallop to bring up the cattle. Then arose the heart rending shrieks of the fair sex, declaring they wanted to be seated in the big road if they were to be scalped. They thought the traders were coaxing them off the main road to kill them. Therefore we abandoned the trading proposition and continued on our way. We traveled four miles further on and camped. Roads good, but the dust or sand seemed to be like ashes, very disagreeable to travel on. Country poor. Camped almost in a mud puddle.
June 16th. Crossed Horse Creek. Traveled over the sand ridges twelve miles to water and grass. Saw a number of Indians, passed a trading house. Camped 18 miles from Fort Laramie, three other companies in sight. The U.S. Government had requested that representatives from the different Indian tribes assemble here ay Fort Laramie, for the purpose of holding a conference that a treaty might be agreed upon, thus ending hostilities between the Indians and Whites, and giving the emigrants and settlers protection from raids and massacres. The Indians had come in tribes instead of sending representatives and probably 25,000 were in the vicinity of the fort. The council was to be held in September. The emigrants thought it well to organize. A captain was elected. It was his duty to detail men from the companies in regular order to stand guard at night. But this large company soon dissolved and Darrow, Spohn, and Griffin of Cass County, Indiana and Judge Taylor’s train from Cass County, Illinois, composed our company.
June 17th. Passed a trading house four miles from Fort Laramie and passed the Fort at 3 P.M. Camped 4 miles from the fort on the North Platt. Hundreds of Indians wished to trade or barter with the immigrants. The Fort is quite a town looking place. Hundreds of cattle were grazing around on the hills. These cattle belonged to the government.
June 18th. Remained in camp. We were visited by the traders. These traders were white men who would trade rested cattle for some that were almost given out. Later on they would trade these to immigrants coming later in the season. These traders also kept provisions. Indians in great numbers, brought moccasins to trade for bread or money. They apparently were nearly starved and begged for something to eat. They appeared very civil. Some were nearly naked. They wanted salt. Flour at this trading
station was 10 to 15 dollars per hundred. Salt 50 cents per pound, cattle 60 dollars per yoke. The Platt is very deep and narrow here. Grass poor. Left camp and moved on over a hilly road 8 miles and camped to let the cattle rest and graze as the grass is very good here and it is about 18 miles to grass again.
June 20th. Started and traveled over a hilly and rocky road. Crossed over several creeks. Very dusty and warm. Some good springs. Camped on a dry branch 3 miles from the Platt River, high hills all around. Scattering cedars and pine trees clothed the hills scantily. Grass fairly good. Rather cold night. The next morning clear and windy. Very dusty. Came over some high hills. Passed the Dalles of the Platt. Camped near a mount three or four hundred feet high on the Platt. Grass plenty. The Dalles is a place where the river had apparently broken through a big crevice in the rock or mountain and is probably 500 feet from the top of the cliff to the water below.
June 22d. Came up hill nearly all day. Passed near Laramie Peak. Roads very hilly and rough. Camped in Big Timber Creek. Grass good. Many Indians in camp tonight. Very friendly. We are camped in the Black Hills. The next day we went over some very high hills. Crossed Little Timber Creek. For several miles in the vicinity the ground is a reddish color. Some very, very rough looking hills, some of the stone of this formation has the appearance of marble, but upon closer examination is found to be quartz rock. I took my first elk hunt today. We camped on Mikes lead Creek. Grass scarce. Excellent water. There are 40 wagons in camp tonight.
June 24th. Crossed several dry creeks. Saw some buffalo. The boys killed one. He was very fat. The country here is vary barren. The grass is literally burned up and dry wild sage flourishes. There is very little timber along the river. High hills in evidence all around us. The weather is warm. Roads good but dusty.
June 25th. We traveled 4 miles to Deer Creek. We stopped to give our cattle needed rest and grass. The women engaged in washing and some of the men (ambitious ones) went hunting, some went fishing, and others rested in the beautiful shady retreats which are numerous along the creek. We met a party of travelers returning from California. They were a tough looking set of “chaps”. Some 300 yards from camp we discovered a coal bank. The coal however is not of the best quality. The mountains are visible some 12 miles to the southward where can be found buffalo, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, bear, rabbits and sage hens.
June 26th. Today we stayed in camp in order to let our oxen rest and graze. Some of the boys are hunting, some reading some laying around in the shade. The women are busy cooking, washing and doing camp jobs. At 4 P.M. we had a refreshing shower of rain, the first since the 15th.
June 27th. Rain in the morning, continuing most of the day, accompanied by a strong wind, very cold. Overcoats and gloves brought into good use. We traveled in sight of a mountain, the top of which is covered with timber. Today we saw several dead cattle. Alkali is plentiful along here, which possibly to some extent accounts for the dead cattle. Grass scarce. Rained last night. Wind from the north. Traveled 1[?] miles and camped at the Ford. Very cold and disagreeable. This was one of the most beautiful camping grounds we had on our journey. Plenty of wood, good grass and good pure water. These were conditions that made the immagrant rejoice because so often these necessaries were scant and sometimes lacking altogether. Often wood was hauled a long distance and many times implements and cargo that could be spared was used for fuel. Good water was lacking many times and was carried a long way. Grass was essential for the stock and the oxen that were pulling the wagons and therefore a good camping place that furnished these necessaries was to the immigrant an “Oasis in the Desert.” A toll
bridge had been built across the Platt, the charge was $5.00 per wagon. Not far from this bridge was a Ford. By blocking up the wagon beds we crossed in safety and lost not goods from getting wet. The year before a company of immigrants made the same attempt to cross but the river was high and caused disaster to them. About forty of their number were drowned.
It was on the 29th of June that we crossed over to the north side of the Platt. Traveled two miles and camped where grass was good.
June 30th, 1851. Frost this morning and quite cold. Traveled 10 miles to the Mineral Springs. The water is very clear until stirred up and it becomes black as ink.Our cattle drank some and we did the same. Ten miles further on we found a good camping place. Better grass than usual but water rather scarce. The ground is crusted with Alkali. No wood. There are three other California trains camped here. Saw several
antelope. Our companies made a split this morning. These differences or dissolutions were scarcely ever of a serious nature. Questions as to which train should take the lead, where to stop for dinner and how long or where to camp for the night and how late to travel were the principal disputes. They aimed to stay near each other for protection.
July 1st 1851. Traveled 9 miles and camped in an Alkali swamp for the noon day meal. Four miles brought us to the Willow Springs. Good water and wood but no grass. Four of our cattle got alkalied and we to be up nearly all night drenching cattle with lard and fat meat. Did not lose any at this time.
July 2d. On our journey today we came to a stream of pure cold water. 17 miles brought us to Independence Rock, the largest I ever saw. There are thousands of names inscribed on its surface. This rock stands on the left bank of Sweet Water Creek. We saw great quantities of Salaratus today. There is very good grazing here but no wood. Saw any amount of Wagon irons. The trail was strewn with the bones of the buffalo, also bones of cattle that had perished on the trail. These bleached bones answered the purpose of conveying messages written on them to friends that were to follow.
July 3rd. Crossed the creek. 18 inches deep and traveled to the Devils Gap where Sweetwater cuts through the mountains the sides of which are 400 feet high. We camped for the night where grass was good but no wood. There are millions of grasshoppers here. The next day “Independence Day” thoughts of home and good times filled our minds. But we traveled 15 miles and camped for dinner. We traveled on and
encountered a storm and had a cold rain from the mountain region. Camped for the night on Bitter Cottonwood Creek. Grass good. Roads very sandy. Sage hens in great numbers. Started early the next morning. Crossed the Sweetwater three times today. Traveled over some very bad roads. Sand and sage. The snow capped mountains are in sight. When I is calm the heat is suffocating but if the wind blows it is very cold. Grass is scarce and no wood.
July 5th. Traveled twenty miles over a sandy barren plain. No water for 16 miles. A few antelope and any number of cattle. Ten immigrant trains in sight. Crossed the Sweetwater twice. Grass here but no wood. The ice froze on water in a pail. Quite cold. Some of the peculiarities in traveling through a country is the varied change in the landscape and the ever presence or non presence of the principal adjuncts—wood or timber, water or springs and grass or good grazing. A few miles brings us to entirely different soil and conditions. No one experienced or noticed this more than the emigrant crossing the plains and mountains in the early history of our western states and territories.
July 6th. Many hardships were endured and many lives lost. At this time came into company with Brigham Young in charge of emmigrants bound for Salt Lake City. Some from Europe and some from the eastern states. Brigham and one of his elders rode in a light buggy. They were all well dressed.
July 7th. Traveled over some very high rock hills or mountains. Wind blowing a gale, grass scarce, snowdrifts along the creek six or eight feet deep, ground apparently rich. Wee traveled six miles after night. Camped on the north fork of Sweetwater. The next day we traveled eight miles to the fork of Sweetwater. Good roads, plenty of grass and water. A heavy frost and ice one half inch thick. The wind blows continually. We are now 12 miles from the Pacific Springs, and directly south of Freemonts Peak which rises to an altitude of 13,570 feet.
July 9th. Ripe strawberries not far from the banks of snow. Cold weather. This day we came over the summit and are now in Oregon. We camped on an Alkali marsh. Grass fairly good. The South Pass is a gap in the Rocky Mountains. Twenty miles wide and in passing over the summit it appears to be level ground. This is the water shed when coming to Pacific Springs, the water all flows toward the Pacific Ocean.
July 10th. Traveled 16 miles. Five brought us to Dry Sandy. Eleven more miles to Little Sandy. The most desperate country I ever saw, sand and sage brush, no grass. The wind blew a perfect gale all day. The sand almost blinded is. Some willows along the creek and it is quite cold. The next day traveled eight miles to Big Sandy, over a barren plain. Went into camp at noon. No grass but drove the cattle up the creek some distance to very good grass. This afternoon we busied ourselves overhauling our wagons and making loads lighter.
July 12th. Yoked up the cattle and drove six miles down the creek to good grass. Camped at noon. The balance of the day was spent in different ways. Some washing, some baking and others went hunting. The hunters brought into camp an antelope. Remained here in camp over the 13th to give the cattle a rest. Rained this morning and showers all day. Rain is said to be out of the ordinary here at this time of the year.
July 14th. Started at ten o’clock to cross the desert 44 miles across. The wind blew and the dust flew. We stopped an hour at dusk for supper then drove all night. We crossed some very deep hollows. After sunrise we came in sight of Green River, a beautiful stream. The charge at the ferry for crossing was $5.00 for each wagon. We hunted a ford and crossed. Water two and a half feet deep. Camped on the river bank, not much grass. This is mountainous country.
July 16th. Traveled ten miles. Good grass and water. Caught some mountain trout. Indians numerous, and nights cold. The next day we traveled 17 miles and camped in the mountains grass fair. We could see the Rocky Mountains 90 miles away to the north and south. Could see their snow capped tops. Came over some mountains and down hills one half mile long with both hind wheels locked.
July 18th. Very cold. Snow only four miles off. This morning one of our party, a woman by the name of Jackson of Cass County, Indiana, that had been sick ever since we left the states, died of dropsy in the wagon while we were going down a hill. Traveled eight miles and camped on a branch of Bear River. We buried the Jackson woman here. The funeral ceremonies were a solemn scene. No coffin enclosed her. We wrapped the body in a quilt and buried her as best we could. There were a number of emmigrant
graves at this place. The ground here is perfectly dry to the depth of two feet.
July 19th. Caught some trout with a seine or rather a piece of muslin. Camped on one of the prettiest streams I ever saw. Hams Fork of Green River. We stopped today to rest our cattle and ourselves.
July 20th. Left camp and traveled 20 miles to Bear River, over some high mountains, through pine forests, and down hills for miles as a stretch. Good water and grass, cold rain today. The next day traveled for 20 miles along Bear River. Excellent grass. Wild barley plentiful, looks like a field of wheat. Passed some very high hills over some of the largest rocks that I ever saw in a road. Very windy. At Thomases Fork on Bear River there is a bridge. When the water is high the charge is $10 per wagon for crossing. We forded through water two feet deep. At this place we met some Oregon boys. Cold the next morning. Indians in great numbers here. Traveled over some high hills. From here we saw a lake in the distance. Went down hill into Bear River bottoms.
July 23d. Traveled along Bear River valley. At the foot of high mountains which are partly covered with pine trees. Crossed some fine streams of water. Came in sight of snow. Good roads. Water and grass, few Indians, ice froze in a pan of water last night. There were six or eight companies in sight today. Good roads, fine weather, cold nights and warm days. Game scarce. We have strawberries every day. Traveled 12 miles and camped near Soda Springs, which is a natural curiosity. Water coming out of the ground forming a mound or rim white in color. Some of these formations are 10 feet high, others less, water running out of the top. One mile farther on they boil and foam in great holes or caldrons. In some of these springs the water is cold. Steamboat spring is on the back of the Bear River and comes up apparently through rock, foaming and boiling, water milk warm, not good to drink. Farther on we came to an old crater out in the plain. We traveled through volcanic country. Seams in the rock hundreds of feet deep in places. Rocks thrown up in great heaps in many places. We saw Old Munseys bake oven which
is a hollow rock sixty feet long and six to eight feet high and is the shave of an oven. The grease wood or sage brush, one to five feet high, has been burning for several days. Camped on a stream between Snake and Bear Rivers. Good grass. The soda water makes the cattle sick.
July 26th. Traveled eight miles and camped on Port Neuf Creek. Caught some trout. Good grass and quite warm. We spent the day in washing, mending and sunning clothes. We were visited by three Indians. They claimed to be in search of a stolen horse. One of them could talk some English.
July 27th. Left camp. Two miles brought us to a tall bridge over Port Neuf Creek. It was ten feet in length. It would take one man about a day to build such a bridge. The owner charged 25 cents for each wagon to pass over but we forded. We crossed the Divide between Snake and Bear Rivers today. The three Teton or Buttes in Idaho are in sight. There were millions of grasshoppers flying in the air. After we got on top of the ridge we saw thousands of large black crickets, two and one-half inches long. They were cannibals for they ate one another. The Indians ate the crickets also. Two miles west of the Ridge we came to splendid spring of cold water which flows into Snake River. We camped on Port Neuf Creek. Wild rye in great quantities, good water. The next day we traveled a short distance and camped on the bank of a small
stream. Wild rye and barley plenty, but poor grass.
July 29th. Traveled a short distance and camped near Fort Loring which is now vacated. Grass good, fine spring water. Strong springs burst from the ground clear and cold, some of which are almost rivers. We were made glad today by seeing a small hewed log house with garden and horse yard near by. Horses, cows, and goats were seen here. All garden plants such as lettuce, radishes, corn, potatoes are successfully grown here. Snake River bottom land is a fertile and beautiful place.
July 30th. Two miles brought us to Ft. Hall, an American trading post. Provisions and supplies are very high, white beans 20 cents per pound, coffee 62 ½ cents lb., rice 30¢, apples 50¢. The fort is built of unburnt bricks, is 100 feet square and fifteen feet high. We are still in sight of the three Buttes. There are more than 100 wagons here marked U.S. and about 3 cords of oxyokes. We crossed a stream sixty yards wide, two and one half feet deep, which comes from the springs in the vicinity of Fort Hall. Traveled over a sage plain all afternoon. Crossed a miry creek where we broke one of our wagons. Took some parts of it and left the rest stay. Camped for the night, good grass. The next morning left camp and traveled through dust till noon. Camped near the American falls of Snake River. Here the river falls about 80 ft. in one hundred yards and here is the terminus of the fine bottom land that we cam on at Ft. Hall. Traveled six
miles and camped for the night. Poor grass. Here we left a horse and an ox, one dead and the other nearly so. The river here is 200 yards wide.
August 1st, 1851. Friday. Left camp and crossed Fall Creek. Traveled 18 miles and camped on the bank of Snake River. Very poor country. Dust and sage.
August 2d. Traveled 8 miles to Raft River. Camped there and stayed till Sunday. Indians plenty and good grass. At this place as notice was posted which read: “Emigrants—Be on your guard. We had a severe encounter with the Indians night before last. One man wounded, not dangerous. The Indians had nothing but bows and arrows. W.H. Brown.”
August 3d. Traveled 16 miles to Big Marsh where we were joined by the Carroll County Train from Indiana. The rockiest road we have had on our trip so far. No grass in this distance of 16 miles. Grease wood plenty, grass and water good. Dust bad. Left Big Marsh and traveled 16 miles to Goose Creek. No wood except grease wood and sage brush. Good grass on this creek. This is the place where three white men
were killed, supposed to have been done by Indians who made an attack on a train when in camp.
August 5th. While here an alarm of Indians was given. Every man grabbed his gun and prepared for battle but no Indians were to be found. There was an ox drowned in a creek three feet wide and two feet deep while at this camp. Traveled 25 miles along Snake River. Part of the road was dusty, the balance rock and rough. Crossed Dry Branch where the water stood in pools a short distance apart. Grass and water plenty, alight shower of rain accompanied by thunder and lightning.
August 7th. Very warm. Traveled down Rock Creek. Roads very dusty. Fourteen miles brought us to a camping place on a bluff 500 feet high on Snake River. Drove at night, a bright moonlight night. Left camp at noon and traveled 12 miles along Snake River. Very warm day, cool at night. There was no grass on our side of the river. After camping we drove the cattle across the river. Four of the boys swam the river to herd them. They discovered Indians close by. This created an excitement in camp. Four others and myself swam across with pistols and stayed with the cattle all night. We had wet shirts, pants, and moccasins and it was a cold jog.
August 9th. Early in the morning we saw several Indians. After sunrise we saw two on the bluff hallowing and rolling down stones to scare the cattle. Two of us went nearer the bluff to drive the cattle away when one redskin had the impudence to level his rifle and shoot at me. I saw him take aim and it made me feel curious. The ball went two feet or more above my head, the distance between us was about 200 yds. We then drove the cattle away as quickly as we could. The Indian loaded his gun again but did not shoot. They could not get down the bluff, neither could we get up so we retired in good order with our cattle. After we had traveled two miles from camp we met many Indians with very large salmon, which they wished to trade us for tobacco and other supplies. We traded for several of the fish which weighed 10 to 20 pounds. After traveling six miles we camped on the bank of Snake River. Good grass.
August 10th. Stayed in camp till noon. When we advanced 3 miles farther and camped at the mouth of a small stream emptying into Snake River. Grass fair. On the other side of the river there is another creek emptying into Snake River. A number of fine springs to be seen on opposite side of river. The water falls 60 to 100 feet into the river. We passed the celebrated Salmon Falls. Here the Indians trapped the fish. They are large and seem to be plentiful because the Indians sell them for almost nothing. Traveled till 10 P.M. and camped on a high bluff on the bank of the river. There was no grass. Water by carrying it one mile up hill.
August 12th. Traveled 16 miles. There was more suffering because of scarcity of water, by the people and animals, than had been experienced at any time. Went down a steep hill at Three Islands. We crossed to the middle island and camped for the night. Grass scarce. The ford is over a mile wide. The Indians were friendly and assisted us to some extent. They were nearly naked. In crossing to the island the water came into the beds of our wagons. The next morning we forded the rest of the river and traveled 5 miles to good grass and poor water. Stayed there till the next morning.
August 14th. Left camp. Went up a hill 3 miles long. Traveled over Osage
plains. Grass and water 6 to 7 miles apart. Camped on a small creek. Grass, water, and
wood plentiful. Came in sight of the Blue Mountains today.
August 15th. Light rain last night. Wind blew very cold all day. Passed the
Boiling Springs today. Faile to find a good camping place and had to travel after night
over one of the rockiest roads I ever saw. Camped on Rock or Seckley River. Grass not
very good. Wood and water plenty. Traveled 24 miles. The next day passed over some right good land. There is a coat of dry grass resembling red top which grows on the mountains and in the valleys. Most of the grass has been burnt off. We could thousands of acres blackened and desolate landscape.
Traveled 16 miles and camped near a small spring branch. A fine camp.
August 17th. Traveled 20 miles to Big Wood River over hills and mountains through mud and dust. Passed through some very rich valleys. The river where we first came to it is 75 yards wide. The most timber we have seen since leaving Ft. Hall. Drove our cattle one and a half miles down a steep hill to the river for water and good grass.
August 18th. Very warm. Saw two antelopes, the first since we left Green River. Rabbits are numerous. There are many paths along and across the road made by the rabbits. Traveled 18 miles to Boise River. Good grass and water. I killed a grouse today. We can see the Blue Mountains from our camp. Very few Indians. Traveled 16 miles. Crossed Boise River and camped. Good grass and water. Two of our boys left
sometime in the night intending to go down Snake River on a raft. They took some provisions with them.
August 21. Traveled 14 miles to Fort Boise. Camped two miles from the Fort which is built of the same material as Fort Hall and about the same size.
August 22d. This morning five more of the boys left and joined the raft expedition. Stayed in camp washing and repairing as usual. I made my first effort here to cut out and make a pair of pants. Succeeded very well. Crossed Snake River at Fort Boise, the water being four feet deep. We blocked up our wagon beds and crossed without any mishap. The Indians piloted us across. We started at noon for the Mallihure
River, arriving there at 11 A.M. Creek muddy, poor grass and very dusty. Traveled 15 miles.
August 24th. Traveled 22 miles to Birch Creek, arriving there at one o’clock. Some grass but no good water. We camped for the night. Traveled 8 miles to Burnt River. Hilly and rough road with little grass, high mountains not far away. Camped for the night near a large spring. August 26th. Left camp and traveled 14 miles over the roughest road that we have had since we left Bear River. Very cold and windy. Three of our boys came to the train today. They were tired of the trip down the Snake River on the raft. A pack train consisting of three Sandwich Islanders and one Indian with 16 horses passed us today.
August 27th. Traveled 15 miles over mountains. I met with an accident today by upsetting my wagon and breaking the bows. No other damage except spilling Mrs. Lolises yeast. Camped on the bank of Burnt River. Good grass.
August 28th. Traveled 8 miles and went to camp and spent the afternoon shoeing horses, corking wagon wheels and washing clothes. Four wagon trains passed us today. Ice froze ¼ inch thick, weather cold.
August 29th. Left Burnt River at the Lone Cedar. 18 miles brought us to Powder River. When we arrived on the ridge we were very much gratified by seeing more timber in a body than we had seen since leaving the states. Good roads and warm days. Good grass on the mountains. Traveled 15 miles in Powder River bottomlands. Began to rain at noon and rained hard till night. Camped on the west fork of Powder River. Good grass.
August 31st. Six miles brought us to where we leave the valley. We found some sick people here. The ailment was flux. An old lady by name of Rice died here. We saw the first Cayuse Indians here. They are fine looking fellows and talk English very well. They have gardens and raise some vegetables and grains. We went up a steep hill and 8 miles brings us to Grand Rond River and down the worst hill we have had on the trip. Mountains are covered with timber some of which is 200 feet high.
September 2d. The river here is 30 yards wide and one foot deep. Layed in camp today. Some went hunting and others stayed in camp. We saw some Oregon squirrels. They look like the gray squirrel of the states but not so large. Several light showers of rain fell today. Temperature rather cool. I sold my horse today.
September 3d. Traveled 15 miles over very rough road through timber and a very crooked road. Showers all day and night. Camped without water but good grass. Had a distant view of the Blue Mountains.
September 4. Rained till noon. Passed Indiana train. Roads very muddy and slippery. We came down a hill 4 miles long into Umatilla Valley. From the top of the hill we had a splendid view. Such as Pilgrims to Oregon only are permitted to behold. We could see the snow capped peak of the Blue Mountains far behind us. 19 miles brought us to the foot of the mountains where we camped. It began to rain. No wood
except green cottonwood and we had quite a task of making a fire.
September 5. Traveled 14 miles down the Umatilla. Saw many Indians and thousands of ponies. They belong to the Indians. Saw several fields fenced. Camped on the banks of the Umatilla, half a mile from the Indiana train. Rain till noon.
September 6th. Bought some coffee today at 50 cents per pound. Traveled over a sandy plain. Two other trains in sight. Clear day. Could see the clouds resting on the mountains all around. Good grass. Camped on the banks of the Umatilla near an Indian chief’s house. He took supper with us. He owned about 100 ponies just as fine as horses could be and they were all colors.
September 7. Came to the Agency. Here is the first frame house we have seen in Oregon. Here we heard of the Promised Land. Could see the snow capped tops of Mounts St. Helena and Ranier. Clear day. Sunday. Having traveled 8 miles. We camped on the banks of the Umatilla. Good grass. Weather moderate.
September 8. Traveled 8 miles to Butter Creek today. Grass fair. Wind blew hard all day. Creek 6 feet wide, 8 inches deep, clear, gravel bottom. Wood scarce. Cool nights.
September 9. Clear and cold. Wind blew all day. Came in sight of Mr. Hood at noon. There were great numbers of mice strewed along the road. We saw no live ones. Rain in the evening. We passed the sinking springs. These two springs half a mile apart flow out of a mound 10 or 12 feet high and disappear in less than 100 yards. Traveled 18 miles and camped at Iken Springs.
September 10. Traveled over a rolling plain to Willow Creek. Good grass and good water. Had a fair view of Mt. Hood. Saw several persons from Oregon.
September 11. Had a cold night. Traveled quite a distance in the dry bed of a river. No wood but green cedar. No water for the cattle. Rained some today.
September 12. Twelve miles brought us to John Days River. We wooded and watered and five miles further brought us to the Columbia River. We came up one of the rockiest hills today we have had on our trip. Very crooked and narrow steep banks on side.
September 13. Traveled over good roads. Down hill all day. Camped on the banks of the Columbia. There were large sand drifts near the river. Wood scarce. Wind blowing a gale.
September 14. Four miles brought us to Fall River which is very swift. 100 yards wide and 3 feet deep. The ferry was broken and the Indians wanted 50¢ per wagon for guiding us across. Some grass wood scarce. Traveled 10 miles today and camped near Walla Creek.
September 15. Layed in camp today engaging in the usual diversions of a rest day.
September 16. 13 miles good roads, good grass and good views of Mr. Hood, St. Helens, and Rainier.
September 17. This day three wagons of our five took provisions and started across the mountains. The other two with all the luggage went to the Dalles to go by water. Traveled 6 miles and camped. Weather clear and cold.
September 18. Thirteen miles brought is to Indian Creek. Good roads to the creek where we went down a very steep hill a quarter mile long. Crossed the creek and went up a very steep hill a quarter mile long. Six miles farther we camped where we found good grass. Paid 65¢ per pound for beef and 20¢ for salt.
September 19. There was heavy frost this morning and ice a quarter inch thick. Traveled to Canon Creek. Here is another very stony hill to go down and then come up again. Three miles further brought us to Barlows Gate. Some good roads and some very steep rough hills. Camped for the night.
September 2. We took the mountain road this morning. Very rough traveling. 8 miles brought us to a creek. One mile further to another and two miles more to another creek and 4 miles more a creek going down a very steep hill one half mile long. We traveled 5 miles up this creek and camped for the night. Our cattle were a great deal of trouble as we had no grass we chained them to trees. They would not eat alder. Very bad roads.
September 21. Started early. Traveled 14 miles to the summit of the Cascade Range of mountains. One mile further brought us to the foot of the hill where we found grass for the cattle but a rather swampy place. Camped near here.
September 22. Started early and traveled over the worst roads I ever saw. There were many wagons abandoned and left and a great number of dead cattle which caused a terrible stink all along the way. Camped at the foot of Laurel Hill. Oh! what a hill.
September 23. On the move early. Our cattle were nearly starved because of the scarcity of grass. Traveled 12 miles and camped.
September 24. Traveled 16 miles to the top of a mountain and camped. Cattle very weak. Several small hills. No good roads.
September 25. Today we crossed Sandy River 80 yards wide. Several cattle gave out today.
September 26, 1851. Traveled 7 miles to Forters over a hilly rough road. This ended our journey to Oregon.
